In the run-up to New York Fashion Week's Sept. 9 opening, a dispute is brewing between IMG Fashion, which produces the biannual event; Local One of the International Alliance of Theatrical Stage Employees, the union that oversees much of the stagehand and other theatrical labor used at the performing-arts complex; and Lincoln Center for the Performing Arts.
With preliminary set-up for the fashion event scheduled to begin this weekend, the union will hold an emergency board meeting on Tuesday morning to discuss its options.
The disagreement is rooted in the nature of the union's relationship with Lincoln Center and the specific location where IMG is scheduled to erect the tents it will use for fashion shows.
The contract between the union and the performing-arts complex gives the union jurisdiction over many events on the Lincoln Center campus, including those held in venues like Alice Tully Hall. But it does not require the use of union labor for events that take place on the plaza or surrounding areas, such as Damrosch Park, in the southwest corner of the plaza, where Fashion Week will pitch its tents.
But according to President James J. Claffey, Jr., the union is traditionally awarded contracts for such events, including the annual Christmas tree-lighting ceremony that takes place near the center's fountain and the seasonal dance event Midsummer Night Swing. And based on that precedent, Mr. Claffey believes IMG should be required to hire union labor for all Fashion Week events held at Lincoln Center.
"Local One is the labor provider. We have a relationship to the entire campus," Mr. Claffey said. "It's absolute practice."
A spokesman for IMG, Zach Eichman, said via email the company is working to avoid an escalation of the disagreement. "The various issues that exist now we are sure will find an amicable solution by September 9," Mr. Eichman said. "As we move into final preparations, our team is focused on providing the most cost efficient, effective, and user-friendly productions for our designer and sponsor clients and as such, will work diligently to make the move to Lincoln Center as smooth as possible."
A spokeswoman for Lincoln Center said that because Fashion Week is a renter, rather than a resident organization, the center does not dictate the terms of the event's labor arrangements. "Lincoln Center has enjoyed amicable and productive relationships with Local One for many years," spokeswoman Betsy Vorce said. "Mercedes Benz Fashion Week at Lincoln Center will operate in Damrosch Park with IMG as its licensee."
Both Lincoln Center and the parks department have told IMG that the union has no jurisdiction over the park property, according to a person familiar with the matter. A spokeswoman for the parks department did not immediately respond to a request for comment.
"Things are very sensitive now," Mr. Claffey said. "We're going to exercise our legal rights if they don't come to some sort of agreement with us."
The union will consider pamphleting or setting up a picket line, according to a person familiar with the matter.
Certain events occurring under the umbrella of New York Fashion Week will take place in Lincoln Center facilities that require the use of union labor, and those events will comply with the lease terms of those facilities, according to a person familiar with the matter.
The outcome of the current dispute will have an impact not only on this season's shows but will also set a precedent for the future relationship between the two groups. IMG has a five-year contract to host Fashion Week at Lincoln Center, and it is expected to make use in coming years of an increasing number of facilities throughout the Lincoln Center campus.
Prior to this season, New York Fashion Week was held in Bryant Park.
