I have just returned from two hours spent in blessed fashion heaven. Of course, I am referring to "The September Issue," R.J. Cutler's riveting documentary about the creation of the September 2007 issue of Vogue. Though the film clocked in at just under two hours, I could spend days analyzing and discussing the minutiae of the film. So, here are just a few of my highlights and observations from the film:
- For fashion enthusiasts, The September Issue was a veritable who's who in the fashion industry with Anna, Grace Coddington, Sally Singer, Tonne Goodman, Elissa Santissi, ALT, Meredith Melling Burke, Charles Churchward, Mario Testino, Patrick Demarchelier, Jean Paul Gaultier, Thakoon, Karl Lagerfeld (!!) et al making appearances or "starring" in the film. I was a little disappointed that we didn't get to see more from my two favorite Vogue editors, Hamish Bowles (European Editor at Large) and Alexandra Kotur (Style Director). We also caught a glimpse of junior Voguettes in the background, decked out in killer heels and pushing racks and racks of clothing. Thrilling.
- Bee Shaffer. It was intriguing to see the dynamics between mother and daughter, even if Bee was slightly hypocritical and, in my opinion, completely wrong-headed in her criticism of her mother's profession. I say that she is a tad bit hypocritical when lambasting the fashion industry because she herself is a contributing editor at Teen Vogue (perhaps at the behest of Anna, much like Anna's own father thrust his profession of choice upon her?). Then again, I sort of know where Bee is coming from when she laughs at an industry that she considers silly and inconsequential. I have felt this way myself before (though, of course, not about fashion!!). So, Bee, I understand how you feel. I'm also thrilled to hear that Bee has plans to join the masses in law school, leaving an open position at Conde Nast for someone who truly wants it (me, me!).
- The inimitable Andre Leon Talley. Is there anyone else truly as fabulous on the planet as ALT? You can't help but smile every time he speaks, from his "famine of beauty" exaltation to his over-the-top descriptions of his own clothing. The highlight had to be ALT playing tennis swathed in monogrammed Louis Vuitton apparel. On anyone else, I would find this kind of logomania ersatz and pretentious. On ALT, it just marks the quotidian luxuriousness that has become his trademark.
- Power. The viewer gets a real sense of just how much influence Anna wields over the fashion industry. She hand-picked Thakoon Panichgul for the Gap partnership and, what do you know, he was chosen for it. She suggested that Oscar de la Renta cut a lackluster look from his line and he at least considered the idea. She doubted the relevance of a look and tens of thousands of dollars of work was scrapped from the magazine, much to the dismay of Grace Coddington, the mastermind behind said look. The bottom line is that Anna can make or break someone's chances in this industry.
- I completely agree with the critics who said that Grace Coddington, Vogue's spirited Creative Director, emerged as the shining star of the film. I couldn't help but tear up when Grace spoke of her immense passion for fashion. Hers is the kind of enthusiasm and perseverance that stems from utter devotion. I sometimes sense that while Anna has dollar bill signs flashing across her eyes, Grace has luminous models in diaphanous couture prancing through the Jardin des Tuileries. Fashion forever holds the allure and fantasy for her, as it does for me. My sister, who saw the film with me, remarked that I am "more of a Grace than an Anna." Yes, a hundred times yes!
- Overall, I found this documentary to be informative and exhilarating. I loved seeing my favorite editors- people whose careers I have followed for close to a decade- in their natural habitat. I can't wait to own the DVD so I can analyze it in greater depth (I would love to see the titles of the books in Sally Singer's office, so I can read them myself!).
If fashion means this much to you, as it does to me, you will not be disappointed, and, even if it does not, there is a great chance that you will be delighted.
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